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Stretch and bow

How to teach a dog to take a bow

Dogs bow all the time without being asked: to invite a game, and to stretch after a nap. Turning that shape into a cue gives you a quick trick and a useful part of a warm-up. The hard part is keeping the back end in the air.

A shaggy Bernedoodle puppy runs across a lawn with a ball in its mouth while another dog follows.

Before you start

Before you start, learn what your dog's bow looks like and when it happens

The AKC describes the play bow plainly: front end down, back end in the air, a shape dogs use while playing. A stretch bow looks the same, only slower, and usually comes right after the dog gets up. Watch for a day or two and note when your dog does it. Most dogs stretch within a minute of leaving a crate or a bed, so you can be ready with a treat and a marker word and simply catch it. That is capturing, and it is the easiest road to a bow.

For the lured version you need a standing dog and a non-slip surface. Think about the body, too. The AKC's conditioning article says to make sure your vet approves before any conditioning program, and notes that severe arthritis can make some movements inappropriate. A deep bow loads the shoulders, elbows and the front of the spine, so a dog with front-leg lameness, shoulder or neck trouble or arthritis should get the vet's view first. A young puppy can learn a shallow bow without being asked to hold it.

  • Treats by the crate or bed for the morning stretch
  • A marker word ready to catch the bow
  • A non-slip floor and a standing dog for the lure
  • The vet's view first for shoulder, elbow, neck or back trouble

The steps

Seven steps combine a captured stretch with a lure under the chest

The lured version follows the AKC's method: start with the dog standing, hold a treat in your fist at its nose, then move it down between the front legs and back toward the chest and belly. As the head follows, the elbows bend toward the floor. Mark and pay at that instant, before the hips have time to sink. Then get the dog moving again with a tossed treat, so it does not settle into a down, and repeat. After several sessions, lure with an empty hand and pay from the other.

If the rear keeps dropping, mark earlier, move the lure a shorter distance back and pay low between the paws. Some trainers rest a finger lightly under the dog's belly, just in front of the hind legs, as a signal that a down is not wanted; it is a light touch, never a hold or a lift. Captured bows and lured bows feed each other, so keep paying the morning stretch while you polish the lure.

  1. 01

    Keep treats near your dog's bed; when it stretches with elbows down and rear up, mark and pay.

  2. 02

    For the lure, stand your dog in front of you and hold a treat in your fist at its nose.

  3. 03

    Move the treat slowly down between the front legs and back toward the chest.

  4. 04

    Mark the instant the elbows dip while the rear is still up, and pay low between the paws.

  5. 05

    Toss the next treat a step away so your dog stands and resets instead of lying down.

  6. 06

    Repeat the movement with an empty hand, paying from your other hand, and say bow just before you move.

  7. 07

    Build a hold of one to three seconds in the bow, then release with a word and a tossed treat.

A stretch before exercise

A bow is a dog-led stretch, so a couple before a run make a gentle warm-up

The AKC's article on conditioning exercises calls stretching useful for warming up before exercise and cooling down after, and suggests teaching stretches by marking a natural stretch and adding a cue once the dog offers it, which is exactly the captured bow. A bow lengthens the front legs, shoulders and spine, and the dog decides how deep to go. That makes it a safer stretch than pulling a leg forward yourself, which is easy to overdo.

Use it on cold Cape Ann mornings. Before a walk on the off-season sand turns into a sprint, or before fetch in the yard, walk for five minutes first, then ask for two bows and a couple of slow spins. Repeat the bows after the run as a cool-down. A dog that has spent the night in a crate or the car comes out stiff, so let it stretch on its own before asking for anything deep. The bow comes after the walk, never instead of it.

  • Walk first, then bow
  • Two bows, held for a second or two
  • Again after the run, as a cool-down
  • Never pull the legs to deepen the stretch

Mistakes we see

The mistakes we see are a lure that goes too far back, a push on the back and a cold dog asked for a deep bow

A lure that travels too far under the dog folds it into a down, and a dog that gets paid lying down learns that down is the trick. Shorten the lure, mark sooner and reset with a toss. Pressing on the shoulders or the back to make the bow happen is the second mistake: it pushes the dog into a shape it did not choose, and some dogs brace or flatten. Keep your hands to the lure and, at most, that light touch under the belly.

Asking a stiff dog for a long, deep bow first thing in the morning is the third. Let the dog stretch on its own terms, or walk first. Remember, too, that a cued bow and a play bow look alike but mean different things. A bow on cue is a trick; a dog that bows at another dog is usually inviting a game. Read the rest of the body and the moment before you decide which one you are seeing.

When to call us

Call us when your dog will not hold the shape, or when you want the bow on a title list

Private sessions from $94 can fix a bow that always collapses, usually with better timing and a better lure position. Dogtown Academy days, $89 full or $69 half, include fitness work with treadmill sessions, low-height agility and the A-frame, a training session with our trainer and a report card on what to practice at home, which suits a Gloucester dog that enjoys having a job. Gabriella Pope leads our training team, and every method we use is force-free.

In the AKC Trick Dog program the bow appears twice. It is among the ideas for Novice handler's choice tricks, where a lure is allowed, and it is an Advanced trick done with no lure, described as looking like a play bow: rear end up, front paws out, head down. A dog that bows on a small hand signal is well on the way, and an AKC Approved CGC Evaluator can test it in person or virtually.

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Asked and answered

Questions people ask about this

Short, complete answers you can act on today. More in the full FAQ.

What is the difference between a bow and a down?
In a bow the front end is down and the rear end stays up, with the front legs stretched forward. In a down the whole body is on the floor. Many dogs slide from one into the other while learning, so mark the bow the instant the elbows dip, before the hips start to sink, and reset with a tossed treat.
My dog keeps lying down instead of bowing. What should I do?
Mark earlier, move the lure a shorter distance back between the legs, and pay low and fast. A finger resting lightly under the belly, just in front of the hind legs, can show that a down is not wanted. Practice right after naps, too, when your dog is already likely to offer a stretch you can catch.
Does a bow mean my dog wants to play?
A spontaneous play bow usually does. The AKC describes it, front end down and back end in the air, as something dogs do while playing, often to start a game. A bow on cue is different: it is a trained shape, and your dog may or may not feel playful. Read the rest of the body, and the moment, to know which you are seeing.
Is bowing a good stretch for older dogs?
Often, because the dog controls how deep it goes, but ask your vet first if your dog has arthritis or shoulder, elbow, neck or back trouble. Keep it shallow and brief, after a walk rather than straight out of bed, and stop if the dog hesitates or seems sore. For some seniors a captured morning stretch is plenty.

More questions? Read the full FAQ

Sources

Rules and dates change. We re-check every beach, licensing and ordinance page each spring and fall; the source above is the current word.

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