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How dogs learn

Positive reinforcement, explained

The phrase is on almost every trainer's website, usually explained as being nice to dogs. It is more exact than that, and the exactness is what lets a stay's results work at home. Here is what counts as a reinforcer, why paying is not bribing, and how rewards are thinned without the behavior falling apart.

Black doodle jumping up for a reward during a lawn session

The definition

Positive reinforcement adds something the dog wants, and the proof is that the behavior grows

Positive reinforcement is a consequence added straight after a behavior that makes the behavior more likely to happen again. Positive means added, not pleasant, and reinforcement means the behavior increases; both words describe what happens, not what anyone intended. If a dog gets a biscuit for sitting and sits no more often afterward, the biscuit reinforced nothing, however kindly it was meant.

The opposite case makes the idea clearer. Negative reinforcement also strengthens a behavior, but by taking something unpleasant away, such as easing leash pressure the moment a dog steps back beside you, so the unpleasant thing has to be there first. Positive reinforcement needs nothing unpleasant at all. A handout on the method hosted by AVSAB, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, describes the reward as payment for a behavior the trainer wants repeated.

  • Something is added right after the behavior
  • The behavior happens more often afterward
  • The increase comes from that consequence
  • If nothing increases, it was not a reinforcer
Small terrier mix in a pink harness looking up at a hand offering a treat outdoors

Why it matters in a stay

In a stay the dog learns what predicts payment, so paying in the right order decides what comes home

A board and train gives a dog hundreds of repetitions in a week, and each teaches two things: the behavior, and what the payment depends on. If food appears after the sit, the dog learns that sitting produces food. If food appears before the sit, held up to coax it, the dog learns that visible food is the signal to work. That second dog sits beautifully for anyone holding a treat and ignores everyone else.

That is the practical line between bribery and pay. A bribe is food shown in advance to buy a behavior. A lure is food used to guide a dog into a position it does not yet know, which the AVSAB handout describes as producing the reinforcer in advance; it is a fair way to start, as long as it is faded. Pay arrives after the behavior, from a pocket or pouch the dog was not watching.

The handover is where this matters most. During the stay the pay comes from our trainers; after pick-up it has to come from you, in the same order and after the same marker word. A dog whose reward history lives in one person's pocket will test the next person, and the go-home lesson exists so that test is passed in our building, with coaching, rather than on your doorstep. The board and train page describes both stays and the coaching that ends each one.

BribeLurePay
When the food appearsBefore the behavior, to coax itBefore the behavior, to guide the bodyAfter the behavior, from out of sight
What the dog learnsVisible food means it is time to workFollow the hand into a positionThis behavior produces good things
How long it lastsBest avoided altogetherA few sessions, then fadedThe life of the behavior, thinned over time

How Dogtown uses it

We let each dog choose its pay, match its value to the difficulty and deliver it fast

Every Dogtown program, from Tiny Tails Puppy School to both board and train stays, is fear- and force-free and built on positive reinforcement, led by Gabriella Pope. The first days of a stay include finding out what a dog will work for, because value is personal and it moves. A dog that takes cheese eagerly in a quiet room may ignore it beside the turf yard, and a worried dog may refuse food altogether, which tells the trainer the task is too hard, not that the dog is stubborn.

Value is then matched to difficulty. The AVSAB handout advises the highest-value reward, given generously and quickly, for hard or emotionally difficult work; we keep ordinary pay for easy work, so the best rewards keep their meaning. Delivery follows one order: the marker lands as the behavior happens, the reward follows within a second or two, and, as the handout recommends, a cue is added once the dog offers the behavior around nine times in ten.

  1. 01

    Pick three or four candidates: two foods, a toy and a chance to sniff

  2. 02

    Offer two at a time, one on each side, and let the dog choose

  3. 03

    Note the winner, swap sides and repeat a few times

  4. 04

    Run the same test somewhere busier, because rankings change outdoors

  5. 05

    Use the top choice for new or hard work and the others for easy repetitions

  6. 06

    Retest every few weeks, since a favorite can lose its pull

Fading

Lures go first, pay is thinned slowly, and the reward never drops to zero

Fading happens in two layers. The lure goes within the first sessions: food in the hand, then the same movement with an empty hand while the pay comes from a pouch, then a smaller signal with the cue word in front of it. Later, once a cue is reliable in several places, pay thins from every repetition to some, mixed with life rewards such as a door opening. The AKC frames the goal as reducing dependence on visible treats, not eliminating rewards altogether.

Thin too fast and the dog notices. In Feuerbacher and Wynne's 2014 study, dogs spent less time near the person handing out food as the food came less often, the laboratory version of a dog that drifts off when the pay dries up. The AVSAB handout adds that a fluent behavior still needs maintaining, especially a valuable one such as coming when called. Our how-to page on rewarding without treats sets out the home sequence step by step, and Dogtown Academy days, $89 full or $69 half, keep a trainer paying the same cues on workdays.

  • Faded early: the lure, so the cue does the work
  • Thinned slowly: how often a known cue is paid
  • Added: life rewards, such as doors, sniffs and greetings
  • Never removed: some pay, especially for recall

What the research says

Research on what dogs choose, and on how reward-trained dogs treat their owners, points one way

Researchers have measured preference directly by letting dogs choose. In a 2015 study, Erica Feuerbacher and Clive Wynne compared petting with vocal praise in shelter dogs and owned dogs, with strangers and with owners. Every group preferred petting, the dogs showed no sign of tiring of it across eight sessions, and a person offering only praise drew about as little approach as a person offering nothing. The authors concluded that praise probably has to be conditioned before it works as a reward.

The method shapes the relationship too. AVSAB's 2021 position statement cites studies in which dogs trained with rewards looked toward their owners more often during training, and in which dogs from reward-based schools played more in their owner's presence than a stranger's, and followed and greeted their owners more. It recommends reward-based training for all dogs and finds no evidence that aversive methods do better in any context.

At Dogtown

Where your dog meets this method

Every Dogtown training program and every Dogtown Academy day is built on positive reinforcement, from puppy school to both board and train stays.

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Asked and answered

Questions people ask about this

Short, complete answers you can act on today. More in the full FAQ.

Is luring my dog with a treat the same as bribing it?
Not at first. A lure guides a dog into a position it does not yet know, and that is a fair way to start. It turns into a bribe when the food has to be shown before every repetition. The fix is to fade the lure within a few sessions: an empty hand making the same movement, with the pay arriving afterward from a pouch.
Why does my dog work for the trainer's treats but not for mine?
Usually because of timing or order rather than the treat itself. Trainers pay within a second or two, from out of sight, and only after the behavior. If your food appears first, or arrives late, the dog learns something different. The go-home lesson rehearses the trainer's order with you until your dog answers you the same way.
My dog is not very interested in food. Can this still work?
Yes. Some dogs prefer a toy, a game, a sniff or access to something, and some refuse food only when stressed, which is information in itself. A worried dog that will not eat is usually over its limit, so the session should get easier. Tell us at the assessment what your dog loves most, and the plan is built around it.
What is negative reinforcement, then?
It is strengthening a behavior by removing something unpleasant: leash pressure that eases when the dog steps back beside you, for example. It works, but only because the unpleasant thing was there first. Dogtown's programs build behavior with positive reinforcement and management instead, which is what fear- and force-free means in practice.
When can I stop rewarding a behavior?
You can reduce rewards, but not stop them entirely. Once a cue works the first time in several places, pay most repetitions, then some, and swap in life rewards. Keep paying well for the behaviors that matter most, especially recall. Training sessions start from $94 if you would like a trainer to plan the thinning with you.

More questions? Read the full FAQ

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